PUNGGL Pinot Grigio 2011: 91 This wine's smoky, meaty character yields scents of star anise as it develops with air. There's clean, nectarine-like fruit in the middle, turning toward flintiness in the end. Thight and well structured, this will juice up a pork chop.

Pinot Noir 2011: 89 (Best Buy) Though brickish and slightly volatile in the aroma, this is vibrant with rose and red berry flavors. The cool, juicy finish will match speck.